Comparative Food: Beans with Meat Stews

When I take up a particular food to learn how to cook and perfect to my satisfaction, I will read about the origins and history of the dish. As I absorb information I make connections with other things, spotting commonalities and patterns. I thought I'd write a few blog posts about "comparative food", sort of like comparative religion but with a lot less deity and twice as much calories. Keep in mind that what I write is not authoritative, just my observations. When applicable, I will provide my favorite recipe for creating the food. Since these foods can be highly personalized to suit your taste, I suggest doing a search to find a recipe to your liking and experiment! If you know of any information that would help expand any of my comparative foods topics, please e-mail me or leave a comment.

My first exploration will be Beans with Meat Stews. These two ingredients are combined in similar ways, yet the type of seasonings and meat will make all the difference in how it tastes. Some common beans with meat stews include: Chili Con Carne, Calico Beans, Cowboy Beans, 15 Bean Soup, Pasta e Fagioli, and Harira or Moroccan Lentil Soup.

Chili Con Carne: Hot & Spicy

The basic ingredients are meat (usually ground beef), beans (usually kidney), and chili peppers. The origins of chili are geographically linked to Mexico and Texas. It was a meal easily prepared by the early settlers. Variations have become popularized to suit specific tastes or dietary needs, such as vegetarian or chicken. Non-traditional forms of chili, such as white chili and chili verde, are accepted as still being part of the larger chili family.

One defining characteristic of this beans with meat combination is the amount of heat, or piquancy, imparted by the form and types of chili peppers used. Most chili is mild, but some prefer a good tongue burning. I don't often make chili, but when I do, I take it easy on the cumin. I like a little heat, but like to keep it mild.

Calico Beans: Sweet & Tangy

The basic ingredients are meat (ground beef and bacon), beans (an assortment, but typically lima, kidney, and white), sugar, vinegar, and mustard powder. Calico beans can also be called "cowboy beans", but I've searched through enough recipes to discern that there is enough distinction for them to be two separate beans with meat stews. I'm not certain of the origins of calico beans, but I think it might be from the northern mid-western region, like Minnesota.

The distinction of calico beans is the sweetness imparted from the use of sugar, either white or brown, coupled with the tangy from the vinegar. Neither sweet nor tang is dominate, and blends well with the flavors from the meats. There is additional tang and sweetness from the ketchup that is used. The mustard powder interacts well with the bacon to provide a bit of a Germanic flavoring to the stew.

Cowboy Beans: Bold Barbecue

The basic ingredients are meat (ground beef, bacon, ham, or similar smoked pork meat), beans (an assortment like calico beans), sugar, and barbecue sauce. While some cowboy beans recipes will be exactly the same as for calico beans, there are enough variations using barbecue sauce or spices similar to chili, to recognize it as a distinct stew. In some cases, cowboy beans seems to be a hybrid of the sweeter calico beans and the spicy chili con carne. Some recipes call for brewed coffee as an ingredient, claiming that out on the prairies, cowboys would use leftover brewed coffee to cook their beans.

I have only made cowboy beans once using a coffee recipe, and it was not as successful as I would have liked. I wasn't adequately prepared with enough ingredients, and to add insult to injury, I overcooked it. I may try again using one of these interesting looking recipes: Spicy Red-Eye Cowboy Baked Beans or Cowboy Beans

15 Bean Soup: Smokey

The basic ingredients are meat (smoked pork or sausage), beans--actually, more than 15 different beans! I'm not sure how long the recipe for 15 Bean Soup has been around or where it originates. All I know is that it is good! The recipe I use is the one on the Hurst Bean package of 15 Bean Soup mix. Though the recipe calls for a smoked pork meat, I make mine using hot Italian sausage as I think it gives the soup a nice warm glow for a cold wintery day. I've made it with ham once and thought it tasted too similar to the standard Ham & Bean soup. This meal is one of our cold weather standards and makes plenty of leftovers.

Pasta e Fagioli: Tangy Savory

The basic ingredients are pasta, beans, and vegetables. The modern Americanized variations include ground beef. The dish originated as a peasant food in Italy. If you've ever eaten at the Olive Garden, you've encountered this soup.

The recipe that I use to make my pasta e fagioli is an Olive Garden copycat. I have made it with pasta a few times, but began omitting it since neither Pooky or I care much for pasta. What is nice about the recipe I use is that the soup takes only about 30-45 minutes from start to finish since canned beans work well. Though it does taste a bit better if allowed to simmer awhile before serving.

I recently discovered that swapping the V-8 juice for a quart of reduced sodium beef broth gives the soup a better flavor and tastes more like Olive Garden's.

Harira or Moroccan Lentil Soup: Savory

The basic ingredients are meat (lamb, beef or chicken), beans (lentils and chickpeas), and sometimes pasta. The soup is seasoned with Middle Eastern spices, such as saffron, cinnamon, ginger, tumeric, etc. The origins of this soup are the Middle East and it is a meal prepared and eaten during the holy month of Ramadan. However, in our country the soup is prepared and eaten according to desire.

My first attempt to make this soup didn't turn out very well, as I seem to have a problem with properly cooking lentils. Before I attempt to make it again, I'd like to find some available in a restaurant to get a sense of how the soup should taste.

Lessons in Cooking: Jody Teaches Me How to Make Gumbo

Recently I helped my fellow crochet guild member, Jody Witt, build her website for her crochet designs. She wished to reciprocate my help, so I asked her if she'd teach me her favorite family gumbo recipe. Jody is from Louisiana, the home of gumbo. She said she'd teach me her maternal grandmother's recipe which uses shrimp, sausage, and chicken.

After my instruction, I was inspired to try my hand at making gumbo. What follows are Jody's instructions and how I adapted them.

The Chicken
Jody says she uses a pressure cooker to cook her chicken for gumbo. The advantages are the meat can be cooked while frozen solid, it makes the chicken tender, and cooks in just 15-20 minutes. My adaptation: Until I acquire a pressure cooker, I poached defrosted chicken.

The chicken is shredded before being added to the pot of ingredients.

The Sausage
Traditional gumbo uses a smoked andouille sausage, but since andouille sausage in general is a specialty outside of Louisana (or neighboring states), those of us without easy access to it will have to make do with what is available. Fresh andouille sausage will not be cheap, as I discovered at the Whole Foods meat counter. I splurged and got one pound. Any packaged smoked, or highly spicy sausage will work. Whatever you think would taste good, but try to get something with heat, because andouille sausage is all about the spicy heat.

The Roux
A cook's best friend is roux. It's a simple 1:1 ratio of fat and flour used to thicken liquids. The ratio can be altered depending on who is doing the cooking, or the cooking style. In regard to cooking the traditional dishes from Louisiana, the roux is always cooked to achieve a specific color, usually brown to chocolate brown. Jody's recipe has you cook the roux for about 20-30 minutes to make a roux the color of a brown bag. I used some of the rendered fat from the sausage to make the roux. This wasn't a good idea as the red oil made it difficult to see the flour's color change. However, the flavor was outstanding.

Before and After of Roux

The Vegetables
Most gumbo has bell pepper, which is part of the holy trinity of Cajun/Creole cooking. I'm not able to eat those kind of peppers as I'll repeat them all day. Okra is commonly used, but seems to not be used very much outside of the south. As gumbo originated out of what vegetables were in season, the mix can vary. Typically you'll find onions, celery, bell peppers, okra, tomatoes, and green onions used as a garnish.

The Most Important Ingredient: Filé
When making gumbo, you can adapt to whatever sausage you like or have available, and the vegetable ingredients vary according to what's on hand, or the cook. But you CANNOT substitute the filé powder and still call it gumbo. In short, filé is ground sassafras leaves. If your local specialty or grocery store doesn't carry it, Cajun Grocer is a good source. And if you have a sassafras tree, you can try your hand at making your own. The powder is added at the very last, when the heat is turned off and the gumbo is not boiling. Adding the filé to boiling liquid results in badness, and you don't want to destroy a gumbo when you've made it this far.

Other seasonings will be added, such as the vague "Cajun" or "Creole Seasoning". These are usually spice blends of cayenne pepper with herbs, with or without salt. Hot pepper sauces can be added during the simmering process, or at the table. Parsley can be added for color and flavor.

My First Gumbo
I was so inspired by how excellent the gumbo tasted, that I needed to make some immediately! (And to do so before I forgot everything--even though I took pictures and took extensive notes.)

I had had gumbo before, but wasn't that impressed by it. The sauce was classic dark chocolate, and what I had seemed to lack flavors--all masked by a lot of peppery heat. As I've learned, restaurant versions of classic foods can sometimes not be a good example of a classic home-cooked dish. Gumbo is so varied that it is difficult, if not impossible, to make a standardized version that captures all the dish entails. Thus when I learned that Jody was born and raised with eating gumbo, my intuition told me she'd know how to make an exquisite gumbo.

I made extra sauce, and made it a bit thicker than what Jody had prepared, as I'm all about the sauce. I used half the amounts of the meats because I didn't want to make an enormous batch. My first gumbo might be a little too oily from the sausage fat, but I don't mind the richness it imparts. This version of gumbo is sublime, and I'm very pleased with the combinations of meats and flavors.

My next adventure with gumbo is to invest in some real smoked andouille sausage and see how that cooks up. I found some that is smoked over pecan wood. I bet it will be amazing!

It all begins with...
2 lbs of chicken
2 lbs of sausage (preferably something seasoned like andouille)
2 pounds of shrimp
2 pounds of okra
2 medium onions
3 quarts of chicken broth
1 large can of diced tomatoes
1 large heaping spoonful of tomato paste
1-2 teaspoons of Cajun or Creole seasoning (like Tony Chachere's)
1 teaspoon of filé powder
Minced garlic (use amount according to taste)
Tabasco or hot sauce (use amount according to taste)
For the roux:
¼ cup vegetable oil
½ cup flour
(More roux can be made if you like a thicker sauce

Basic instructions: Cook chicken and shred. Cube sausage and saute to render out fat. Save some of the reserved fat, but not too much as a greasy gumbo is not good. In a large pot, at least 7 quart size, add some EVOO and add medium-coarsely chopped onions, along with garlic if you are using any. Once the onions are starting to become translucent, add the sausage and gently saute on medium to low until it become aromatic. Add the shredded chicken, 1 quart of broth, diced tomatoes with juice. Add the seasonings you will use, but NOT the filé powder. Set this to simmer, then begin the roux.

Heat the oil in a regular pan, do not use a non-stick pan--preferably a cast iron skillet, but a stainless steel will do. Add the flour and whisk consistently over a medium to medium-low heat. If you burn or scorch the roux, you'll have to start over. The roux will take at least 20-30 minutes to become the color of a brown paper bag. Lower or remove the roux from heat when it is done; whisk in the heaping spoonful of tomato paste. Once the paste is incorporated, slowly pour in 1 quart of chicken broth, furiously whisking to make sure no lumps form. Return the skillet to medium heat to bring it to a boil. Once it has boiled, pour it into the larger pot with everything else.

Add the okra after about an hour of simmering. Add more broth if necessary, using the full quart if desired. Simmer either covered or uncovered on low, but make sure not to reduce the sauce too much. The shortest amount of time simmering would be an additional hour after the first hour of simmering, for a total of 2 hours, but it should simmering about 3-4 hours.

About 30 minutes before serving, prepare the shrimp. Make sure the gumbo is nice and bubbly, then turn off the heat. Add the shrimp and filé powder when the gumbo just stops bubbling. Cover the pot and allow it to rest about 15-20 minutes. Serve over rice. Leftovers are good to eat for up to 3-4 days.

Occupy Together

As I've gotten older, and hopefully wiser, I have wanted to engage more in political-community activities and groups, yet not entirely sure where to direct my energy. After spending much time reading about Occupy Wall Street, and the spin-off local groups through Occupy Together, I decided it was a group I wanted to check out and become a part of.

Through my own trials by fire, I've learned that I can be insanely insistent, demanding, and forceful in why I think someone should get involved, going so far as to cut people out of my life for disagreement. I have found that such tactics create barriers, resistance, alienation, and kill relationships. My wisdom from all of this is if something is truly a good idea, people will find out for themselves by example--living what I believe, and hearing by word-of-mouth the positive experiences someone has had. Which is why I'm about to share the pictures I took and let some of that do the talking. I've also been collecting other people's words that I have read from reader's comments to articles about the original Occupy Wall Street and want to share them because this is not about what I think per se, but what we all think, because this groups is about us. (I highly recommend reading this editorial.)

Hopefully, what I've shared here will pique your interest and you'll want to learn more, maybe even get involved. Everyone is welcome, everyone truly matters, has something to contribute, because we're all in this together. Additional pictures are available for viewing in this album.

Freedomny writes: I pray that this movement does not get bought and sold. It is not about Democrats. It is not about Republican­s. It is about AMERICANS! I personally feel that if this movement is not co-opted - it will grow in the organic way it should. The criticism that there is not "one" or "two" demands is because MSM, corporatio­ns and our government­...just don't "get" it. This is a cultural and social shift of what democracy really is. People are finally questionni­ng...what is democracy? What does it mean to me? What is my part? Why does such a small percent of the majority dictate the vision for the rest of us? But...what about MY vision? About OUR vision? The 99%. The majority. I am proud that my fellow Americans are fighting for real democracy. And I will join them when I can. And if the unions want to join in and support...­that is great. But it doesn't mean this movement will totally support them....be­cause there are definately issues with unions. Pension costs are killing the average American, that doesn't get those benefits and pensions. And unions lobby and buy off Democrats in the the same way that coporation­s buy off Republican­s for votes. There is no lobbyist for the average American. So, think of OWS as a lobbyist for you...and they aren't paying off a politician­. I am a banker and I support OWS and "ethical" capitalism­.

annenigma writes: No, they're not listening to the voters at all, or we wouldn't need to take to the streets. Heck, they're not even listening to their own words, those promises they ran on then serially broke. The only ones they listen to are their fellow millionaires, crooks and liars all. Anyone who claims that protesters want the 'government' to fix things is wrong, wrong, wrong! They created this mess, they sure aren't the ones to fix it, because the fix is in. The entire system is CORRUPT. What we are saying is that we need to take out the trash. Start over completely. We are on the streets because VOTING IS MEANINGLESS! It's an empty exercise encouraged to make us feel invested in the system so we'll donate to campaigns and keep paying taxes. Money, money, money. They need it so they can keep sending us into endless wars to kill and die for war profiteering corporations. For money, money, money. We have no elected representation, period. Even in jury trials you get a jury of your peers, but we get Millionaires representing us? We have even more justification for another Revolution than the first time around, and by golly, we've got one started right now. Finally.

Les Dryer writes: The middle-aged, middle class has watched in silence as the Repubs and then the Dems stripped them of their modest assets,health and education. They have aided and abetted the wealthy and their institutions. Finally the young, facing a lifetime of under-employment, have seized the discontent. It is in all our interests (the 99%) to support them. Their demands are obvious and well articulated, just the media needs to relay the message correctly. "Protestors Against Wall St" editorial got it right,finally.

Richard Williamson writes: One sign said it all: "I couldn't afford a politician, so I made this sign." Representation in Congress is for sale, and we don't have enough money to enter the bidding. (Even though our taxes provide the lawmakers' base pay).

Beef Burger: 50 yrs of Biff Goodness

My perpetual quest to find The Perfect Cheeseburger has increased my awareness of burger stand history. On occasion I've come upon some establishments with a rich history, like XXX Rootbeer. For awhile I've known about Beef Burger (aka Biff Burger) located in Greensboro, NC. Last week we had the inclination to pay a visit. The restaurant is one of the two remaining vestiges of the Biff Burger franchise that started in the 1950s. The chain began in Florida and had locations primarily in the southeast. (The website has a really great history section, so go read it!)

There are two distinguishing characteristics to the Biff Burger. One is the method of cooking the patty. They use a proprietary device called a roto-broiler. The other is their special sauce.

It is interesting to me that burgers in the PNW are often served up with a special sauce, secret sauce, or locally referred to as "goop". A true goop is mayonnaise-based with numerous ingredients. Outside of the PNW, the local burgers are typically served with the standard condiments--no goop to be found. However, as we've become more mobile, regihttp://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifonal quirks are being shared and adapted. The popularity of the NYC Shake Shack burger that uses a very PNW style goop is evidence.

I would classify the special sauce used on the Biff Burger to be a truly unique southern "goop". The sauce is very much like the vinegar based barbecue sauces of eastern North Carolina. The surprise ingredient that gives the sauce a true signature is the ground ginger. Do not despair if you live nowhere near Greensboro, for the website provides the recipe for their signature special sauce!

The most basic burger is served with a patty dunked in the special sauce. The cheeseburger adds a slice of cheese. My first impression of the burger was that it strongly reminded me of Manwich sauce, but with some differences. The flavors of the sauce began as tomato-y, then the tang of vinegar, finishing with the pleasant, unexpected flavor of the ground ginger. The sauce is balanced so that no one flavor dominates. It stood on its own without additional toppings.

The dining area was kept pretty clean, though the walls were decorated with very antiquated signs. There was a space on one wall paying homage to the history of the restaurant. Any place that has been in business for 50 yrs and counting should tout their accomplishment!

Identifying the Loss of Capsaicin-Induced Heat Sensation in Humans as a Result of Culinary Experimentation

Abstract
Culinary experimentation can often result in unexpected results. Most recently, an experiment in making a Thai-Mexican pork taco hybrid resulted in a significant reduction in a much-desired capsaicin-induced heat sensation experienced by the human tasters. A simple design experiment was conducted to determine the apparent "loss" of capsaicin when in the presence of citric acids and a fatty acid, in this case canola oil. A review of the literature concerning the chemical properties of capsaicin revealed that the compound is alkaline, highly soluble in vegetable oils, and immiscible in water. The results of the experiment conformed to the known properties of capsaicin.

Introduction
In the process of creating a new culinary creation, unexpected results can often be achieved without intention. Determining the cause of such unexpected results can be done by random trial and error, or by applying knowledge of chemistry, since the essence of cooking is the combination of various chemical molecules and compounds into a form suitable to both taste and nutrition.

Recently, an experiment conducted to achieve a Thai-Mexican pork taco hybrid marinade resulted in the unexpected loss of the capsaicin-induced heat sensation in the final product. A simple experiment was conducted to determine the cause of the apparent "loss".

Materials and Methods
Materials used were similar to, or actual ingredients, that would be used in the marinade. A standardized source of capsaicin was used to provide consistency. Two solutions were made, each containing 1 oz. of Sriracha chile sauce dissolved into 4 oz. of reduced sodium chicken broth, and were labeled Solution A and Solution B respectively. Both solutions were tested before the additions of citric or fatty acid by a high sophisticated organic piece of equipment that is known to lack objectivity, but is highly sensitive to the presence of capsaicin, to confirm that they both had a similar capsaicin-induced heat sensation.

Next, 2 oz. of bottled lime juice were added to Solution A. To Solution B, 2 oz. of canola oil were added. Both solutions underwent mechanical agitation (vigorous shaking), then were placed within an environment of approximately 35°F for approximately 4 hours. After the 4 hours, Solution B was observed as being a heterogenous solution consisting of a top oily layer and a bottom aqueous layer. Solution A was observed to be a homogenous solution.

The top oily layer of Solution B was not distinct enough for mechanical extraction by a spoon. A culinary marinade injection syringe with an attached needle was inserted to extract a portion of the bottom aqueous solution below the oily layer. The obtained solution was placed within a spoon to be tested by the highly sophisticated organic equipment. A second sample from Solution B was obtained by using the same syringe apparatus to extract a portion of the top oily later, which was placed in a second spoon to be taste-tested.

A sample of Solution A was obtained by using a third spoon.

Both solutions were returned to the cold environment for approximately another 3 hours before a second extraction was obtained to be tested by a second piece of sophisticated organic equipment.
Results
The sample obtain from the bottom aqueous solution layer from Solution B was found to taste very bland and watery. The distinct absence of a capsaicin-induced heat sensation was very pronounced in comparison to the original solution before the addition of the fatty acid. The secondary tester (without being informed of the first taster's experience) reported similarly that the aqueous solution was bland and had a less than expected heat response.

The sample obtained from Solution A was found to have a very pronounced sour-tang taste at first, then followed by an immediate intense burning sensation that was determined as being near equivalent to the original solution before the addition of citric acid. The second tester was observed not to be expecting such an intense heat sensation from the sample and involuntarily coughed when the capsaicin-induced heat sensation was first experienced. The second tester reported that the heat sensation experienced was intense.

A sample from the top oily layer of Solution B was tested and was found to induce a capsaicin-induced heat sensation, but not as intense or shocking as that of the original solution prior to the addition of the fatty acid. The oil seemed to slightly mitigate the sharp intensity of the heat. The second tester reported the presence of heat as well, but was still recovering from the shock of having sampled Solution A.

Discussion
Capsaicin is basic in its chemical properties, thus it was expected that the addition of an acid, in the form of citric acid, would neutralize it. While no measurements of the respective pH for any of the solutions were taken, no neutralizing effects were detected by the pieces of sophisticated organic equipment used. It may be that the type of citric acid used was not a strong enough acid, or that a different ratio needed to be used before any neutralizing effects could be detected. It was therefore concluded that the type citric acid used, and the volume and/or ratio that would be used in the marinade had little to no effect of causing any loss of the capsaicin-induced heat sensation experienced by the testers.

Canola oil is a fatty acid derived from a genetically modified species of the rapeseed plant. The modification is to reduce the levels of erucic acid, a known toxin. It could be considered to be part of the generic term "vegetable oil", which according to the literature, is highly soluble with capsaicin. The canola oil did not solidify in the cold environment, which would have made it easier to extract the oily layer from Solution B. The use of extra-virgin olive oil would have been better suited as it would have solidified for removal. The sample of solution that was obtained from the bottom aqueous layer had noticeable minute oil globules, therefore the samples acquired were not of ideal purity. Nonetheless, there was a noticeable lack of capsaicin-induced heat sensation experienced by both testers. The samples tested of the top oily layer were both experienced to contain an expected amount of capsaicin-induced heat sensation, but not as sharp as those samples tested from Solution A.

The samples obtained from the two layers of Solution B most conformed with the expected interaction of capsaicin when dissolved in a fatty acid or "vegetable oil". It was expected that the capsaicins would dissolve into the oil and no longer be present or detectable by the testers in the separated aqueous layer. It was concluded that the unexpected loss of capsaicin-induced heat sensation from the experimental marinades was most likely caused by the omission or removal of the oily layer that formed during the cooking process caused by fat rendering from the meat.

While it was found that the citric acid had undetectable effects on the capsaicin-induced heat sensation, it was realized that the acid could be used to create an unstable emulsion to combine the oily layer and aqueous layer of the marinade mixture, thus preventing the separation and hence loss of capsaicin-induced heat sensation. In other words, the marinade would become like a simple oil and vinegar dressing.

Thai-Mexican Pork Taco Hybrid Experiments: Trial #1

While I was making my favorite Mexican chile pepper marinade/sauce for pork tacos, I had an epiphany culinary in nature. The piquant nature of the ancho and guajillo chiles reminded me of Thai chile peppers, and then it struck me how both cuisines use the same ingredients and have some similar taste profiles. I spent some time thinking about what would a Thai-Mexican pork taco taste like? It would definitely have heat from chiles, hints of spices, tang and sweet from citrus, and some savory-salty from a sea source. I decided I would make two different sauces for marinades. One would be Mexican chile based, the other Thai chile based.

Thai Chile Based Meat

When I was learning about making a good, homemade tom kha gai, I also learned about nam prik pao. During our last excursion to stock up on Asian foods, I bought a bottle of nam prik pao for future recipes. It's interesting stuff, and I like it. It's a nice blend of heat, salty, and sweet. I thought it would be the perfect base for my Thai-Mexican pork taco hybrid.

Here's what I used for the sauce for one pound of meat:
¼ cup nam prik pao
¼ lime juice
4 Tablespoons fish sauce
2 teaspoons freshly ground spice blend*
½ orange juice
1 cup chicken broth
>>Add enough water to cover the meat if this volume of liquid does not<<

Mexican Chile Based Meat

I've always used dried Mexican chiles for my sauces. The drying process concentrates flavors as well as develops them, much like wine taking on hints of various flavors. My rationale that what is missing from a Mexican-based sauce that is present in a Thai-based sauce is the savory/salty/sea flavor. Therefore, I added both oyster sauce and fish sauce. In reflection, I think the oyster sauce was not necessary, making the final product taste more Chinese.

Here's what I used for the sauce for one pound of meat:
⅓ cup of ancho/guajillo sauce**
⅓ oyster sauce
¼ fish sauce
¼ lime juice
¼ orange juice
2 teaspoons spice blend*
1 cup chicken broth
>>Add enough water to cover the meat if this volume of liquid does not<<

** Ancho/guajillo sauce: 4 ancho & 4 guajillo chiles lightly toast on a hot skillet before being steeped them in water that is just below the boiling point. Remove from heat before adding chiles. Steep until chiles become very soft. Blend them with a little of the steeped chile water, then strain to remove seeds and pulpy bits. Will make much more than required, but good for other uses.

* Spice blend: Using whole all spice, star anise, cumin seeds, and cloves in portions you prefer, grind up into a powder.

Taste-Testing the Meats

Though both sauces initially started out tasting very "hot" from their respective chiles, in the cooking process both became very mild. I was a bit disappointed about the loss of heat, so I will figure out where it went for future experiments.

My impression was that the Mexican version had a much tangier citrus taste followed by a deeper savory/salty/sea flavor. The Thai version was a nice balance of heat, tang, and salt, with a very subtle hint of sweet. Out of the two, both Pooky and I preferred the Thai based version. The Thai version struck me as being more Thai than a blend of Thai-Mexican in flavor. I may have to tweak my spice blend and add Mexican oregano, which I did not in this first round of experiments.

Both version were very tasty, and successfully included a savory/salty/sea dimension to the meat that is not present in a purely Mexican version. Both lacked the heat of their respective chiles, so I will explore what caused them to lessen in intensity. I was very pleased with my initial results and will continue to tweak until I find the balance of flavors.

Tostones, Patacones: It's All Plantain Good!

Awhile back we enjoyed some delicious Colombian food in downtown Durham at Guajillo's Mexican Grill. I was inspired to try my own hand at making patacones, or tostones. There are many regional terms for a twice-fried plantain patty, much like the various names for subs, hoagies, grinders, etc.

How the plantains are cooked into patties is fairly universal. They are cut into slices then allowed to soak in water that has a bit of minced garlic added. The slices are briefly fried in some hot oil until they are golden. The slices are allowed to cool for a few minutes before being smooshed into patties. (There is a wonderful gizmo called a tostonera that flattens the slice to the perfect thickness. I will need to get one!) Once the patty is made it is put back into the hot oil and fried until crisp and browned.

The toppings vary according to region, but it seems standard to use refried beans, meat, maybe veggies, then cheese. All is popped underneath a broiler to melt the cheese. I made mine inspired by a Colombian recipe, adapting it to suit some preferences. I used seasoned chicken, bacon, sauteed mushrooms, onions & garlic, and topped with pepperjack cheese. Just a few them are all it takes to make a very satisfying, tasty meal!